We’re fully in the midst of resort season—that time of year when the biggest fashion houses in the world take their intrepid pack of celebs, buyers, and friends to far-flung locations for blowout destination shows. For Chanel, that meant showcasing resort 2025 in Marseilles, the charming port city in southern France.
Enveloped in seaside air, models walked atop the “Cité Radieuse” terrace built by Le Corbusier between 1948 and 1952. A lime-green tweed skirt suit layered with a hoodie opened the runway show, setting the tone for the collection: a mix of low-key casual with the Ladies Who Lunch aesthetic that’s become a signature of creative director Virginie Viard. There were matching crochet skirts and cardigans paired with logo cutout hooded sweaters, little knit beige shorts sets styled with chunky pearl necklaces, and one particularly charming hooded white swimsuit with a black bow at the neckline.
Since taking the helm of the brand in 2019, Viard has rarely strayed from her design manifesto of sticking to Chanel’s ladylike codes. But resort collections typically allow for some experimentation and playfulness. Indeed, midway through the 76-look collection, Viard explored divergent details, like a green blazer dress with checkerboard beaded pockets, or a rainbow tunic and matching shorts. Black tweed bloomers paired with a matching top also felt like a bright spot of newness.
Accessories dominated the collection. Nearly every model who walked the show wore multiple pieces of jewelry: strands of pearls piled onto each other, matching chunky earrings, sheer gloves and gold belts. Bags ranged from the embellished, classic flap to three-dimensional mini Chanel logos that bounced as the models walked. Rounded boater hats! Embellish wrist cuffs! Fabric camellia brooches! These accessories had a point of view. (Plus, everyone knows more is more for the Chanel client.)
Beyond the show, Chanel plans to host an activation in Marseille that’ll bring artists, craftspeople, designers, and creatives from the seaside town together. Later this month, the brand is taking over Fort Saint-Jean and its 19M gallery for group exhibitions, embroidery workshops, and round table discussions. But on the runway, Viard chose to close her show with 12 looks, all in various shades of white—giving yet another nod to a sportier look. With Luca Guadagnino’s recent Challengers release and the Paris Olympics impending, tennis whites and on-the-court styles are certainly on everyone’s mind.
